TS/M7 



. THE . 



• • • 



pinisher's ]*^anual. 









Containing the Recipts of an 
Expert for Finishing the 
Bottoms of Boots and Shoe, 
as well as Other Valuable 
Information ...... 



i»>/^ 



FINISHER'S MANUAL PUBLISHING CO., 

82 Lincoln Street, Boston, Mass. 



• • • 1 n c • • • 

Finishers' flanual. 

Containing the Receipts of an 

Expert for Finishing the 

Bottoms of Boots and 

Shoes, as well as \y 

other valuable 



information. 



r 



JUL 16 1891 



<v F»RICK, 5$2.00. V 

V "^^f'^'^ 

Finishers' Manual Publishing Co. 

82 LINCOLN STREET, 

BOSTON. 




Copyrighted 1891 



^,n 



^- 



PREFACE. 

In issuing this book to the trade we give to 
the reader the results of many years of prac- 
tical and successful experiments. We have 
made the finishing of hemlock leather a 
thorough study and we take pleasure in com-, 
mending to your consideration our various 
formulas which will give a clear, even finish 
on any kind of leather provided our directions 
are strictly carried out. Every shoe manufac- 
turer or finisher knows the value of a clean, 
bright attractive finish on his goods. The 
formulas we offer have been thoroughly and 
successfully tested by the best known manu- 
factuiers and finishers in this country. The 
finisher will do well to remember that it is 
the individual skill of the workman in per- 
forming many apparently simple operations 
which renders those operations successful. 
When, therefore, a receipt is tried for the first 
time and is not thoroughly successful, the ex- 
perimentalist should consider how far his own 
inexperience has contributed to the failure 
before he condemns the receipt. 



12 

Enamel Stain. 

Color: White. 1 gall. 
Pare White Lead . . . . 8 lbs 

IFrench Yellow 4 oz 

White Glue, dissolved in 1 pt. hot 

water 4 '' 

White Castile Soap dissolved in 1 qt. 

hot water 4 " 

French Isinglass dissolved in 3 pts. 

hot water .... 15 sheets. 

Make a paste of white lead and Fr. yellow 
by wetting up with clean cold water. Let 
stand twenty-four hours. 

It should then be thoroughly ground through 
a paint mill. Glue, soap and isinglass shouM 
be turned together and thoroughly mixed with 
white lead and Fr. yellow. Strain through 
cheese cloth. ' If you wish add a small quan- 
tity of pure white glycerine. The white lead 
should be pure and the finest ground to be ob- 
tained. Do not have too much of this stain on 
hand, as age does not improve it. 

The enamel can be made in any shade by 
the following ingredients ; Fr. yellow, chrome 
yellow, orange chrome, red ochre, Venetian 
red, Brandon, red, brown ochre, umber, ex- 
tract of white oak bark. See table for colors 
and shades. Add all colors to the white lead 
dry; wet and grind. Should the stain thicken 
by long standing reduce with a solution made 
by the above, glue, soap and isinglass. 



13 

The enamel is applied in the same manner as 
the Oakaline or Ivory Stain. 

Stir freely from the bottom, then take out 
with a long-handled dipper a small amount, put 
in a shallow dish ; dust off the bottom of the 
shoe by power brush. With a 2-inch eamels'- 
hair brush apply the stain to the sole of the 
shoe, first across and then immediately the 
other way of the sole ; then let dry thoroughly. 

With a very fine piece of sandpaper go over 
the sole of the shoe two or three times to 
smooth it off. 

Apply a coat gum brush very lightly to lay 
it on even. Let dry, then brush to a polish. 
For a high polish, polish on roll. 

The camels' -hair brush should be kept in 
water when not in use, and should be washed 
out thoroughly two or three times a day. 

Your success depends on keeping your dish 
and brushes clean. 

Jersey stains, No. 27 and 29, added to enamel 
white ; 1 quart of Jersey to 3 quarts of enamel 
gives a very fine shade. 

No. I. 

Sediment, Dry Out, Dry Brush or Burnish 

Stain. 

Color: Oak shade. For hemlock leather 
5 gall. 

DIRECTIONS. 

With a sponge, or varnish brush, soak the 



14 



stain well into the leather ; brush in well with 
a stiff hand brush until the leather is thor- 
oughly saturated. Smooth off with a very soft 
hand brush, then let dry thoroughly. Dust off 
with a soft power or hand brush. Bone or 
burnish with hot iron. Two coats will im- 
prove the looks, the first coat simply soaked^in 
well with a sponge, for twelve pairs, then make 
second application. 

China Clay 

Chalk 

French Yellow 

Oxalic Acid 

Sulphate of Zinc 

Oil of Vitriol . 

Sumac Berry ground 

White Oak Bark ground 

Coignet Glue . 

Soft Soap . 

Gum Tragacanth 

DIRECTIONS FOR MIXING 

First chalk and soft soap should be thoroughly 
mixed together, the soap to cut the talk. Add 
China clay and Fr. yellow. Stir wel]|together, 
add zinc and oxalic acid. Put sumac berry in 
a bag, boil in five gallons of water three hours. 
Press dry, mix all together in this extract, 
boil one hour, add glue and oil of vitriol] while 
boiling. 



2K lbs. 


2 




% 




X 




% 




% 


*► 


IK 




2% 




1 sheet. 


24 


its. 


2( 


its. 



ir> 



No. 3. 








Sediment, Dry Out, Dry Brush or 


Burnish 


Stain. 




Color: Oak. For hemlock leather 


1 gall. 


French Yellow 


1 lb. 


Cream Tartar . 


. 


, 




6 ozs. 


White Vitriol . 








7 '' 


Blue " 








7 " 


Sugar of Lead . 








8 '« 


Alum ground . 








8 " 


Oxalic Acid 








\% lbs. 


Oak Bark . 








1 lb. 


Quinciteron Bark 








1 " 


Gum Tragacanth 








1 qt. 



DIRECTIONS FOR MIXING. 

First, Fr. yellow, gum, cream tartar, white 
and blue vitriol, sugar of lead and alum. Bark 
to be used same as Xo 1. Boil in one gallon of 
water. 

DIRECTIONS. 

With a sponge or varnish brush, soak the 
stain well into the leather ; brush in well with 
a stiff hand brush until the leather is thor- 
oughlij saturated. Smooth off with a very soft 
hand brush, then let dry thoroughly. Dust off 
with a soft power or hand brush. Bone or 
burnish with hot iron. Two coats will improve 
the looks, the first coat simply soaked in well 
with a sponge, for twelve pairs, then make 
second application. 



16 



To Make a Hard Finish. 

Wet as above, when dry apply a coat of gun> 
with a flat varnish brush, brash very lightly on 
a soft power brush to lay the gum on even ; da 
not press the shoe hard against the brush, as 
it will have a tendency to darken it ; let dry, 
then polish on machine or medium stiff brush. 



No. 5. 








Sediment, Dry Out, Dry Brush 


or 


Burnish 


Stain. 








Color: White oak, shaded to 


cream. 


For 


hemlock leather. 5 gall. 








Fr. Yellow .... 




2 


lbs. 


Cream Tartar . 




2 


fi 


White Vitriol .... 




2 


(( 


Blue Vitriol .... 




2 


i( 


Oxalic Acid .... 




1 


u 


Globular Salrs 




1 


u 


Dextrine 




/ 


4 " 


Gum Tragacanth Ileavy 




2 


qts^ 


DIRECTIONS FOR MIXING. 






First gum, Fr. yellow, cream 


tartar, 


white 


vitrol, blue vitrol, oxalic acid, globular 


salts 


and dextrine ; boil three hours. 








Stain to be applied same as Xo. 


3. 







No. 7. 

Sediment, Dry Out, Dry Brush or Burnisb 

Stain. 

Color : pure white. 20 gallons. 



17 



lbs, 



S 
8 

8 ' 
8 ' 
5 ' 
8^^ ' 
8 qts 



Fr. yellow 

China Clay 

White Vitrol 

Blue Vitrol 

Cream tartar 

Oxalic Acid 

Gum Tragacanth (thin) . 

Directions for mixing same as No. 5. 

Stain applied same as Xo. 3. 

This is a very heavy stain made especially to 
cover poor leather. If worked in with a very 
stiff hand brush, there are no reasonable im- 
perfections that this stain will not cover. It is 
subject to a high gloss. It can be used as a 
sediment hard finish. 



For oak or Union>^leather. 4 gal- 



lb. 



No. g. 

Sediment, Dry Out, Dry Brush or Burnish 

Stain. 

White oak. 
Ions. 

White Vitrol 

Epsom Salts 

Hyposulphate of Soda 

Oxalic Acid 

Cream Tartar 

Pipe Clay .... 

French Gelatine . 

Gum Tragacanth (very thin) 

DIRECTIONS FOR MIXING. 

First, pipe clay, gum, cream tartar, white 
vitrol, oxalic acid, Epsom salts. Boil two 



40 



4 " 
sheets. 
1 qt. 



18 

hours. Dissolve gelatine before adding to the 
stain. Add Hyphosulphate of soda the last 
thing. 

DIRECTIONS. 

With a sponge, or varnish brush, soak the 
stain well into the leather ; brush in well with 
a stiff hand brush until the leather is thoroughly 
saturated. Smooth off with a very soft hand 
brush, then let dry thoroughly. Dust off with 
a soft power or hand brush. Bone or burnish 
with hot iron. Two coats wiU improve the 
looks, the first coat simply soaked in well with 
a sponge, for twelve pairs, then make second 
application. 



To Make a Hard Finish. 

Wet as above, when dry, apply a coat of 
gum with a flat varnish brush, brush very 
lightly on a soft power brush to lay the gum 
on even, do not press the shoe hard against 
the brush as it will have a tendency to darken 
it ; let dry, then polish on machine or medium 
stiff brush. 



No. II. 

Sediment, Dry Out, Dry Brush or Burnish 

Stain. 

Color: White oak. For hemlock, oak or 
Union leather. 10 gallons. 
White Vitrol . . . . 2>^ lbs. 

French Yellow . . . . >^ " 



19 

Cream Tartar .... 1 " 

Oxalic Acid .... % *' 

Pipe Clay .... 5 " 

French Gelatine .... 50 sheets. 
Gum Tragacanth (thin) . . 2}.2 qts. 

Directions for mixing same as No. 9. 

DIRECTIONS. 

With a sponge, or varnish brush, soak the 
stain well into the leather; brush in well with 
a stiff hand brush until the leather is thor- 
oughly saturated. Smooth off with a very soft 
hand brush, then let dry thoroughly. Dust off 
with a soft power or baud brush. Bone or 
burnish with hot iron. Two coats will improve 
the looks ; the first coat simply soaked in well 
with a sponge, for twelve pairs, then make 
second application. 

To make a hard finish see No. 9. 

This stain has a good body, and readily cov- 
ers imperfections. It fills the leather, yet 
shows the fibres plainly. Hemlock leather 
finished with this stain resembles Union fin- 
ished with acid, and brushed to a polish. It 
is subject to a high gloss with hot iron or 
Briggs' polishing machine. 



No. 13. 
Sediment, Dry Out, Dry Brush or Burnish 

Stain. 
Color: White oak. For hemlock, Union or 
oak leather. 10 gallons. 
BlueVitrol .... 1;^ lbs. 



20 



2>^ '^ 
IX " 
4 qts. 



White Vitrol .... 

Cream Tartar . . . , 

French Yellow .... 
Oxalic Acid .... 

Gum Tragacanth (thin) 

Directions for mixing see No. 9. 

Apply stain same as No. 9. 

To make a hard finish see No. 9. 

This stain is what is generally called oak or 
white, and is a good covering stain. Hemlock 
leather finished with No. 13 is a good imitatieu 
of oak, if used as a hard finish stain, it resem- 
bles oak or Union finished with acid and gum. 



No. 15. 


f 


Sediment, Dry Out, Dry Brush 


or Burnish 


Stain. 




Color: White oak. For hemlock, oak or 


Union leather. 10 gallons. 




Blue Vitrol .... 


2 lbs. 


White Vitrol .... 


3 " 


French Yellow .... 


2)^ " 


Cream Tartar 


2 " 


Oxalic Acid .... 


IX " 


Gum Tragacanth (medium) . 


3qts. 


Directions for mixing see No. 9 


. 


Apply stain same as No. 11. 





No. 17. 
Sediment, Dry Out, Dry Brush or Burnish 

Stain. 
Color : White. For hemlock or Union leath- 
er. 5 gallons. 



21 



White Vitrol 


2 lbs. 


BlueVitrol 


. IX '' 


Cream Tartar 


1 '' 


Oxalic Acid 


1 '' 


French Yellow 


'A " 


Pipe Clay 


5 '^ 


French Gelatine . 


40 sheets. 


Gum Tragacanth (thin) 


3 pints. 


Directions for mixing same as 


No. 3. 


Apply same as No. 11. 




No. ig. 




Sediment, Dry Out, Dry Brush or Burnish 


Stain. 




Color: Oak, shaded to cream. 


For hemlock, 


oak or Union leather. 10 gallons. 


White Vitrol 


2)4 lbs. 


French Yellow 


. 21^ ^' 


Cream Tartar 


. 2K '^ 


Terra Alta 


. ^y^ '^ 


Pipe Clay 


. 10 '' 



French Isinglass .... 25 sheets. 
Gum Tragacanth .... 2}4 <lts. 

Directions for mixing same as No. 3. 

DIRECTIONS. 

With a sponge, or varnish brush, soak the 
stain well into the leather ; brush^in well with 
a stiff hand brush until the leather is thorough- 
ly saturated. Smooth off with a very soft hand 
brush, then let dry thoroughly. Dust off with 
a soft power or hand brush. Bone or burnish 
with hot iron. Two coats will improve the 



22 



looks, the first coat simply soaked in well with 
a sponge, for twelve pairs, then make second 
application. 

To make a hard finish see No. 9. 

This stain works well into the leather, fills 
all coarse places, and covers all imperfections. 
It is subject to a high polish when dry by bur- 
nishing, boning or dry brushing. It works well 
as a hard finish stain. This stain can be 
smoothed ofi" by power brush, known among 
finishers as Power Dry Out. Better results 
have been (or are) obtained by smoothing off 
all sediment stains with a hand brush. 



No 21. *' 

Sedimentj Dry Out, Dry Brush or Burnish 
Stain. 

Color: White oak. For hemlock, oak or 
Union leather. 8 gallons. 

China Clay .... 5 lbs. 

TeraAlba .... 6 

French Yellow .... 3 '' 

White Vitrol . . ^ . . 4 '• 

BlueVitrol . . . . 3 "' 

French Gelatine .... 40 sheets. 

(Grum Tragacanth (medium) . . 2 qts. 

Directions for mixing same as No. 3. 

DIRECTIONS. 

With a sponge, or varnish brush, soak the 
stain well into the leather; brush in well with 
a stiff hand brush until the leather is thorough- 



23 



ly saturated. Smooth off with a very soft hand 
brush, then let dry thoroughly. Dust off with 
a soft power or hand brush. Bone or burnish 
with hot iron. Two coats will improve the 
looks, the first coat simply soaked in well with 
a sponge, for twelve pairs, then make second 
application. 

To make a hard finish see No. 9. 

The ingredients of this stain have bleaching 
qualities. It also has a very heavy body, and 
will cover all reasonable imperfections. It can 
be used as a Sediment, Hard Finish, and works 
on English or any oak stock with as good re- 
sults as Union. It is subject to a high gloss. 



Sediment, Dry 



No. 23. 
Out, Dry 

Stain. 



B rush or Burnish 



For oak or Union leather. 



lbs. 

u 



Color: White. 
8 gallons. 
Oxalic Acid 
Cream Tartar 
Blue Vitrol 
White Vitrol 
French Yellow 
Isinglass 
Gum Tragacanth 

Directions for mixing see No. 9. 

DIRECTIONS. 

With a sponge, or varnish brush, soak the 
stain well into the leather ; brush in well with 
a stiff hand brush until the leather is thor- 



2 

IK '' 

15 sheets. 

IJqt. 



24 

oughly saturated. Smooth off with a very 
soft hand brush, then let dry thoroughly. 
Dust off with a soft power or hand brush. 
Bone or burnish with hot iron. Two coats will 
improve the looks, the first coat simply soaked 
in well with a sponge, for twelve pairs, then 
make second application. 



8 


lbs. 


2 


u 


1 


t( 



No. 24. 
Sediment, Hard Finish Stain. 

Color: Red. For hemlock, oak or Union 

leather. 5 gallons. 

Venetian Red. . . ■ . 

Orange Chrome .... 

French Yellow .... 

DIRECTIONS FOR MIXING. 

Wet all dry colors with vinegar, making a 
paste of the same. Add one ounce of oil of 
sassafras, one ounce of pure white glycerine. 
This should be ground through a paint mill, if 
not, let stand twenty -four hours. Take one 
quart of gum tragacanth to a gallon of water; 
boil hard until it is about the consistency of 
cream. Add to the paste and mix well to- 
gether. 

DIRECTIONS. 

With a soft sponge soak the stain in well ; 
brush first with a medium stiff hand brush, 
then smooth off with a very soft hand brush ; 
let dry thoroughly ; for a polish apply a coat 
of gum tragacanth, brushing immediately with 
a soft power brush to a polish. 



25 



8 


lbs. 


2^ 


i( 


2 


(( 


1 


oz. 


1 


n 



No. 25. 
Sediment, Hard Finish Stain. 

Color : Orange light. For hemlock, oak or 
Uuion leather. 5 gallons. 
Orange Chrome (medium) 
Venetian Red 
French Yellow 
Oil of Sassafras 
Olycerine 

Directions for mixing see No. 24. 

DIRECTIONS. 

With a soft sponge soak the stain in well ; 
brush first with a medium stiflT hand brush, then 
«mooth off with a very soft hand brush ; let dry 
thoroughly ; for a polish apply a coat of gum 
tragacanth, brushing immediately with a soft 

power brush to a polish. 

This is a heavy body stain, made to cover 
poor hemlock leather, principally used on 
heavy Stoga work. 

No. 27. 
Sediment, Hard Finish Stain. 

Color: Orange medium. For hemlock, oak 
or Union leather. 5 gallons. 
Orange Chrome Dark . 
Light Venetian Red. 
French Yellow .... 
Oil of Sassafras .... 
Pure White Glycerine . 

Directions for mixing see No. 24. 

DIRECTIONS. 

With a soft sponge soak the stain in well ; 



8 
4 
1 
1 
1 



lbs. 



oz, 



26 

brush first with a medium stiff hand brush, 
then smooth off with a very soft hand brush ; 
let dry thoroughly ; for a polish apply a coat 
of gum tragacanth, brushing immediately with 
a soft power brush to a polish. 

This is one of the best covering light colored 
stains in use. Hemlock leather finished with 
this stain cannot be detected from Union or 
oak. 





No. 29. 








Sediment 


, Hard Finish 


Stain. 




Color: Dark orange. For hei 


tnlocb 


^5 ' 


oak or 


Union leather. 5 


gallons. 








Orange Chrome Dark . 


. 


s 


lbs. 


Light Venetian Red 




4 


e. 


French Yellow 


. 




1 


I, 


Orange Aniline 


. 




1 


pt 


Oil of Sassafras 


. 




1 


oz. 


Glycerine 


. 


. 


1 


u 


Directions for mixing see No. 


24. 








DIRECTIONS. 









With a soft sponge soak the stain in well ; 
brash first with a medium stiff hand brush, then 
smooth off with a very soft hand brush ; let dry 
thoroughly ; for a polish apply a coat of gum 
tragacanth, brushing immediately with a soft 
power brush to a polish. 

This stain has all the (iualitie« and is of the 
same nature as No. 27, medium, but is a few 
shades darker. Is used to a ^reat extent on 
medium grade boots, through New England 
and the West. 



^K 


lbs 


^% 


11 


2 


qts 


1 


oz 


4 


(I 


24. 





27 

No. 31. 
Sediment, Hard Finish Stain. 

Color: Eed Jersey, or Brick Red. For hem- 
lock, oak or Union leather. 5 gallons. 
Brandon Red .... 

Light Venetian Red 
Gum Tragacanth . -. . . 
Oil of Sassafras . . 
Glycerine . . . . 

Directions for mixing same as No. 

DIRECTIONS. 

With a soft sponge soak the stain in well; 
brush first with a medium stiff hand brush ; 
then smooth off with a very soft hand brush, 
let dry thoroughly ; for a polish apply a coat 
of gum tragacanth, brushing immediately with 
a soft power brush to a polish. 

This stain can be boned, ironed or polished 
on the Briggs' machine. 

This stain, like the others of this class, works 
on all kinds of leather, leaving the surface fine 
and even in color. Works easy. 



No. 33. 
Sediment, Hard Finish Stain. 

Color: Leather Brown. For hemlock, oak 
or Union leather. 5 gallons. 
Brown Ochre .... 2 lbs. 

India Red 6 " 

Orange Chrome .... 1 " 

Oil of Sassafras .... 1 oz. 
Pure White Glycerine ... 1 

Directions for mixing same as No. 24. 



u 



28 



DIRECTIONS. 

With a soft sponge soak the stain in well ; 
brush first with a medium stiff hand brushy 
then smooth off with a very soft hand brush ; 
let dry thoroughly ; for a polish apply a coat of 
gum tragacanth. 

This stain is of a dark leather color, will 
cover all kinds of hemlock as well as oak or 
Union, and resembles the very dark custom 
finish (that is, the grain of the leather coulted 
down without buffing). Like the other hard 
finish, sediment stains, it will stand very hard 
usage. 



No. 35. 
Sediment, Hard Finish Stain. 

Color: Dark buff", shaded to red. For hem- 
lock, oak or Union leather. 5 gallons. 



4 
3 

1 
1 



lbs. 



oz» 



Terra Alba 
French Yellow 
Light Venetian Red 
Oil of Sassafras 
Glycerine 
Directions for mixing see No. 24. 

DIRECTIONS. 

With a soft sponge soak the stain in well ; 
brush first with a medium stiff hand brush, 
then smooth off with a very soft hand brush ; 
let dry thoroughly ; for a polish apply a coat 
of gum tragacanth, brushing immediately with 
a soft power brush to a polish. 



Q9 



No. 37. 
Sediment, Hard Finish Stain. 

Color: Very light buff. For hemlock, oak or 
Union leather. 5 gallons. 
Medium Chrome . . . . 4>^ lbs. 
French Yellow .... 2 *' 
Light Venetian R- (I . . • 2 " 

Oil of Sassafras .... 1 oz. 
Pure White Glycerine ... 1 '* 

Directions for mixing same as No. 24. 

DIRECTIONS. 

With a soft sponge soak the stain in well y 
brush first with a medium stiff hand brush, then 
smooth off with a very soft hand brush ; let dry 
thoroughly ; for a polish apply a coat of gum 
tragacanth, brushing immediately with a soft 
power brush to a polish. 

This is a hard finish sediment st^in, know 
to finishers as "Jersey." It covers all imper- 
fections, fills coarse places, leaving a very clear 
and uniform finish. It is subject to a high pol- 
ish with gum or Briggs' polishing machine. 



No. 39. 
Sediment, Hard Finish Stain. 
Color: Chocolate. For hemlock, oak or 
Union leather. 
Burnishing Ink .... 2 qtf. 

Edge Ink 2 

Venetian Red .... 2 lbs. 

Mix well togeihei . 



30 



DIRECTIONS. 

With a soft sponge soak the stain in \^ ell ; 
brush first with a medium stiff hand brush, 
then smooth off with a very soft hand brush ; 
let dry thoroughly ; for a polish apply a coat 
of gum tragacanth, brushing immediately with 
a soft power brush to a polish. 

This stain can be boned, ironed or polished 
on the Briggs' machine. 

This stain is made specially to cover poor 
leather and give it the uniformity of the best 
of oak. It does not lay on the outside surface, 
but penetrates the leather, and the fine fibers so 
much desired are plainly to be seen. It is also 
subject to the highest possible polish. 



No. 41. 
Sediment, Hard Finish Stain. 
Color : Buff. Hemlock, oak or Union leath. 
er. 10 gallons. 

Medium Chrome . . . . y lbs. 
French Yellow .... 4 "• 

Light Venetian Red ... 4 " 

Gum Tragacanth (thin) . .3 qts. 

DIRECTIONS. 

With a soft sponge soak the stain in well ; 
brush first with a medium stiff brush, then 
smooth oft' with a very soft brush; let dry 
thoroughly ; for a polish apply a coat of gum 
tragacanth, brushing immediately with a soft 
power brush to a polish. 



31 

No. 43. 
Quick Brush Stain. 

Color: Orange. For hemlock, oak or Union 
leather. 

Orange Aniline . • • • 2 oz. 
Dissolved in Hot Water. 

Gum Tragacanth . . • . 1 gal. 
Add a very little Oxalic Acid. 
Mix together; boil 15 minutes. 

DIRECTIONS. 

Lay stain on even with flat brush or sponge? 
then brush to a polish on power brush. This 
can also be used as a dry out stain as follows : 
After applying stain, brush off even on power 
brush, then let dry and brush to a polish. 

The quickness of the method is the principal 
feature in favor of stains of this class. This 
is one of the best shades produced by this 
method, works very easy and covers slight im- 
perfections, leaving a hard and very high finish. 

This can be used as a transparent stain by 
applying as follows : 

DIRECTIONS. 

Apply the stain very freely with a sponge or 
varnish brush. Brush very lightly with a soft 
power or hand brush to lay the stain on even. 

Do not press the shoe too hard against the 
brush, as it will have a tendency to darken it. 

Let dry thoroughly, then apply a light coat 
of the stain or gum and brush to a polish. 



32 



No. 45. 
Quick Brush Stain. 
For hemlock, oak or Union leather. 
Color: Leather brown, light custom shade. 

Gum Tragacanth (stiff) . . 3 pts. 
Extract of Logwood . . 2 oz. 
Salt 1 spoonful. 

DIRECTIONS. 

Lay stain on even with flat brush or sponge, 
then brush to a polish on power brush. This 
can also be used as a dry out stain as follows ; 
after applying stain, brush off even on power 
brush, then let dry and brush to a polish. 

To use as a transparent stain, apply as fol-^ 
lows: 

DIRECTIONS. 

Apply the stain very freely with a sponge or 
varnish brush. Brush very lightly with a soft 
power or hand brush to lay the stain on even. 

Do not press the shoe too hard against the 
brush, as it will have a tendency to darken it. 

Let dry thoroughly, then apply a light coat 
of the staiQ or gum and brush to a polish. 



No. 47. 
Quick Brush Custom Stain. 

Color: Leather color. For Hemlock 

Aniline Red . . . . 1 oz. 

Dissolved in 1 quart hot water. 
Oum Tragacanth (medium) . 3 qts. 

Mix together; boil 15 minutes. 



33 



DIRECTIONS. 

Work the stain well into the leather with a 
sponge or varnish brush. Lay the stain even 
by brushing very hard on power brush. Go 
through the case in this way, then take those 
stained first, apply a light coat of stain or gum 
and brush to a polish. 

Generally one coat of stain applied as gum, 
and brushed out quickly is sufficient. 



No. 49. 
Quick Brush Custom Stain. 

Color: Custom brown. For hemlock, oak 
or Union leather. 

Aniline Brown .... 1 oz. 
Dissolved in 1 quart hot water. 
Gum Tragacanth . . . 1 gal. 

Mix together; boil 15 minutes. 

DIPECTIONS. 

Work the stain well into the leather with a 
sponge or varnish brush. Lay the stain even 
by brushing very hard on power brush. Go 
through the case in this way, then take those 
stained first, apply a light coat of stain or gum 
and brush to a polish. 

Generally one coat of stain applied as gum,, 
and brushed out quick is sufficient. 



No. 51. 
Fancy Colored Stain. 
Color: Brown. For hemlock, oak or Union' 
leather. 



34 



Bismark Brown Aniline dissolved in 

Alcohol 8 oz. 

Gum Tragacanth (very thin) . 1 qt. 

Glycerine 4 oz. 

Hot water 1 gal . 

DIRECTIONS FOR FANCY STAINS. 

With a soft sponge soak the stain in well ; 
brush lightly with a very soft brush to lay the 
stain on even ; let dry thoroughly ; for a polish 
apply a thin coat of gum tragacanth, brushing 
immediately with a soft power brush to a pol- 
ish. 

Fancy colored stains are used for shanks, 

bottoms and edges, same stain answering for 

all ; for shanks, stripes, etc., apply with a brush 

same as for ink ; brush off lightly with a soft 

brush ; burnish with hot iron, same time as the 
ink stripe. 



No. 53. 
Fancy Colored Stain. 
Color: Ked. For hemlock, oak or Union 
leather. 

Bed Aniline dissolved in Alcohol . 8 oz. 
Gum Tragacanth (very thin) . 1 qt. 
Glycerine . . . . . 4 oz. 
Hot water 1 gal. 

DIRECTIONS FOR FANCY STAINS. 

With a soft sponge soak the stain in well ; 
brush lightly with a very soft brush to lay the 
stain on even ; let dry thoroughly ; for a polish 
apply a thin coat of gum tragacanth, brushing 



35 

immediately with a soft power brush to a 
polish. 

Fancy colored stains are used for shanks, 

bottoms and edges, same stain answering for 

all; for shanks, stripes, etc., apply with a 

brush same as for ink ; brush off lightly with 

a soft brush ; burnish with hot iron, same time 

as the ink stripe. 



No. 55. 
Fancy Colored Stain. 

Color : Purple. For hemlock, oak or Union 

leather. 

Purple Aniline dissolved in Alcohol . 6 oz. 

Gum Tragacanth (very thin) . 1 qt. 

Glycerine 4 oz. 

Hot water 1 gal. 

DIRECTIONS FOR FANCY STAINS. 

With a soft sponge soak the stain in well ; 
brush lightly with a very soft brush to lay the 
stain on even ; let dry thoroughly ; for a polish 
apply a thin coat of gum tragacanth, brushing 
immediately with a soft power brush to a 
polish. 

Fancy colored stains are used for shanks, 
bottoms and edges, same stain answering for 
ail ; for shanks, stripes, etc., apply with a brush 
same as for ink ; brush off lightly with a soft 
brush; burnish with hot iron, same time as the 
ink stripe. 



No. 57. 
Fancy Colored Stain. 

Color : Orange. For hemlock, oak or Union 
leather. 



36 



Orange Aniline dissolved in Alco- 
hol oz. 

Gum Tragacanth (very thin) . I pt. 

Glycerine 4 oz. 

Hot water 1 gal. 

DIRECTIONS FOR FANCY STAINS. 

With a soft sponge soak the stain in well ; 

brush lightly with a very soft brush to lay the 

stain on even ; let dry thoroughly ; for a polish 

apply a thin coat of gum tragacanth, brushing 

immediately with a soft power brush to a 

polish. 

Fancy colored stains are used for shanks, 
bottoms ana edges, same stain answering for 
all ; for shanks, stripes, etc., apply with a brush 
same as for ink ; brush oft' lightly with a soff 
brush ; burnish with hot iron, same time as the 
ink stripe. 



No. 59. 
Transparent Stain. 

Color : White. For hemlock, oak or Union 
leather. 2 gallons. 
White Yitrol 
Oxalic Acid 
Cream Tartar 
Blue Vitrol 
Gum Arabic 
Butler Antimony 
Tartaric Acid 
Epsom Salts 
French Yellow 

DIRECTIONS FOR MIXING. 

Put in boiling water ; let stand two weeks. 



1 


lb. 


% 


(( 


I 


u 


12 


oz. 


3 


11 


I 


(( 


.0 


u 


1 


lb. 


14 


oz. 



37 



DIRECTIONS. 

Apply the stain very freely with a sponge or 
varnish brush. Brush very lightly with a soft 
power or hand brush to lay the stain on even. 

Do not press the shoe too hard against the 
brush, as it will have a tendency to darken it. 

Let dry thoroughly, then apply a light coat 
of the stain or gum and brush to a polish. 

This is a transparent stain, leaves no coating, 
yet covers imperfections in oak and Union 
leather. Goods finished with this have the ap- 
pearance of oak leather filled and polished. 
Ironed Light Acid. 

Light acid. 1 gallon. 
Castile Soap dissolved 
Seam OSS Farina dissolved 
Coignet Glue 
Oxalic Acid . . 

Gelatine .... 

Sulphate of Zinc 
Gum Tragacanth 

Brush acid bottom. 1 gallon. 
Gum Tragacanth 
Oxalic Acid ... 

Sulphate of Zinc 
Epsom Salts 

Brush acid bottom. 2 quarts. 
Gum Tragacanth 
Oxalic Acid 

Alum .... 
Borax 



1 


qt. 


1 


(I 


1 


sheet. 


6 


oz. 


. 10 


sheets. 


4 


oz. 


1 


pt. 


1 


qt. 


4 


oz. 


.. 4 


n 


1 


lb. 


1 


qt. 


1 


oz. 


1 


11 


1 


(( 



38 



Acid Bottom Oak Stock. 

Add a small quantity of Dextrine and a few 
drops of sulphuric acid to your gum. The 
gum to be quite stiff". Apply the mixture to 
the bottom of the shoe, then brush dry and 
polish. 



Shading Stains. 

Anilines of proper shades may be used in 
coloring stains, omitting a part of the dry 
colors. 

In making oak stain No. 9 dissolve in hot 
water the isinglass before adding it to the staiif. 
Dissolve the Hypophosphate in water and add 
it the last. 

Aniline colors dissolved in alcohol will give 
you better and clearer shades. A little acid 
may be used with good results. 

Oak stain No. 11 may be shaded by adding 
3 oz. of medium chrome, 3 oz. Venetian red, 
wet with vinegar. To make a cream color add 
more of the red and yellow. 

Red, yellow and black added to oak stain will 
give you a pearl color. 

Adding brown ochre to oak stain makes a 
very pretty shade. 

Brandon red added to oak or Jersey makes a 
nice shade. 

To darken Jersey stain No. 37 add more of 
the red, omitting part of the yellow revers and 

will be light. 



39 

Oak stain No. 9 can be darkened by the addi- 
tion of 6^ oz. of French yellow. To make it 
a flesh color add 3^ oz. of light Venetian red. 



Various Ingredients Used in Making a Brush 
or Iron Custom Bottom. 

Kedwood steeped in alcohol makes a very 
good red dye. Use a little acid. 

Red sawnders treated in the same manner is 
also a very good dye. 

A small quantity of bichromate of potash 
dissolved in water. Add a very small quantity 
of this to your gum and apply the mixture to 
the bottom of the boot or shoe ; brush partial- 
ly dry with a power brush, and then finish with 
a hot burnishing iron. 

Orange aniline, extract of logwood, gum 
tragacanth and a small quantity of oxalic acid. 

Orange and a small quantity of black aniline 
mixed with gum tragacanth (stiff) ; a little 
oxalic acid. 

Brown aniline, gum tragacanth, a little acid. 

Orange aniline with a small quantity of picric 
acid added to the gum. The aniline and picric 
acid to be first dissolved separately in water ; 
care to be used in adding the acid to insure 
good results, as an excess of acid will precipi- 
tate the aniline. 

All the following ingredients may be used in 
finishing the bottoms of boots and shoes : 

Pipe Clay, 

Terra Alba, 



40 

French Chalk, 

White Lead, 

Flake White, 

Whiting, 

Sulphate of Baryta, 

French Yellow, 

Blue Vitrol, 

White Vitrol. 

Oxalic Acid, 

Tartari« Acid, 

Muriatic Acid, 

Sulphuric Acid, 

Oil of Vitrol, 

Gum Tragacanth, 

Gum Arabic, 

Animal Glue, 

Fish Glue, 

Dextrine, 

Borax, 

Copperas, 

Cream Tartar, 

Glawber Salts, 

Epsom Salts, 

Sal. Soda, 

Logwood Extract 

Bichromate of Potash, 

Alum, 

Tin Crystals, 

Quercitron, 

Picric Acid, 

Logwood Extracts 



41 

Fustic Extracts, 

Brown Ochre, 

Orange Chrome, 

Burnt Umber, 

Vermilion, 

Carmine, 

Chrome Yellow, 

Chrome Green, 

Castile Soap, 

Sour Beer, 

Butter of Antimony, 

Vinegar, 

Red Saundress, 

Mars Yellow, 

Oak Bark Extract, 

Wood Alcohol, 

Sumac, 

Egg Albumen, 

Oil of Sassafras, 

Glycerine, 

Bisulphate of Soda, 

Nitrate of Iron, 

French Gelatine, 

Sea Moss, 

Sea Moss Farina, 

Magnesia, 

Sugar of Lead, 

India Red, 

Brandon Red, 

Venetian Red, 

Mars Red, 



42 



Aniline Eed, 
Redwood. 



Bleach. 

To remove water stains. 

A little bisulphate of soda and a little acid 
in clear cold water. With a sponge or varnish 
brush soak well into the leather ; brush in well 
with a stiff hand brush until the leather is 
thoroughly saturated. Smooth off with a soft 
hand brush. 



Rubber or Channel Cement. 

Virgin or native India rubber. Cut into 
small pieces. A bottle is filled with this to 
about one-tenth of its capacity. Benzine is 
then poured on uatil about three parts full. 
It is then kept until thoroughly dissolved and 
of a thick consistency. To thicken or thin 
add either material. 



A Good Edge Wax. 

No. 7 Gum Carnawba . . 9 oz. 

Good Cericine . . . . ^ 7 " 

Add a little cotton-seed oil. Melt by hot 
water same as glue, a kettle within a kettle. 
Mould when partly cool. 



A Preparation to Use in Burnishing Ink. 

To prevent the iron from scratching. 
Pulverized Pumice-stone . . 8 oz. 

Crocus 2 " 

Prussian Blue .... 1 " 

Mix well together and use in small quanti^ 
ties. 



43 

Preparation to Use in Burnishing Ink. 

Logwood 1 lb. 

Nitrate of Iron . . . . 8 oz. 
Glycerine 3 " 

Makes 1 gallon. Use one-half pint to a gal- 
lon of blacking. 

To insure a black top lift use a little nitrate 
of iron in the blacking that you use on such. 
No. I. 

TABLE FOR COLORS AND SHADES. 

STONE COLOR. 

White lead a little burnt, or raw umber. 

GRAY STONE. 

White lead and a little black. 

SKY BLUE. 

White and Prussian blue. 

FAWN COLOR. 

White stone ochre ; a little vermilion. 

LEMON COLOR. 

White and chrome yellow. 

PEACH COLOR. 

White, with either vermilion, India red, pur- 
ple, brown or burnt umber. 

PEARL. 

Blue, with lead color. 

LEAD COLOR. 

Lampblack with white. 

BUFF. 

Yellow ochre and white. 

FRENCH WHITE. 

White, tinted with purple. 



44 



BRIGHT GREEN. 

Paris green with white. 

DARK GREEN. 

Black, with chrome green. 

PEA GREEN. 

Chrome green with white. 

BRILLIANT GREEN. 

Emerald green with white. 

ORANGE. 

Vermilion with chrome yellow. 

STRAW COLOR. 

Chrome yellow with white lead. 

CREAM. 

White tinted with red and yellow. 

OLIVE. 

Chrome yellow, blue, black and red. 

FRENCH GRAY. 

White tinted with black and purple. 

ASHES OF ROSES. 

White with tints of black and purple. 

ROSE. 

Lake with white. 

riNK. 
Carmine with white. 

PURPLE. 

Carmine with blue. 

PEARL GRAY. 

White, blue and black. 



45 



VERMILION. 

Carmine and yellow. 

LAVENDER. 

Carmine, ultramarine and white. 

UMBER. 

White, yellow, red and black. 

BROWN. 

Made with red and black. 

BRIGHT BROWN. 

Carmine, yellow and black. 

CHESTNUT. 

White and brown. 

DRAB. 

Umber and white. 

CHOCOLATE. 

Yellow and brown. 

FLESH COLOR. 

Carmine and straw. 

SILVER GRAY. 

Lampblack with indigo. 

GOLD COLOR. 

Chrome yellow, a little vermilion and white. 

OLIVE GREEN. 

Raw umber, Prussian blue. 



Points. 

All dry colors to be wet up with vinegar. 
See that the chrome is made very fine. 

Gum used in stains to be thoroughly dis- 
solved and made very fine. 



40 



In making stains use hot water or steam. 
Steam is the best. 

Use a little oil of sassafras in your stains to 
disguise the odor of the vinegar. Add the oil 
to the dry colors. 

Use the best of chemicals, for they are the 
cheapest and give you the best results. 

To prevent fermentation in your gum use 
salicylic acid in small quantities. 

A Good Polish or Slicker. 

No. I. 

One package of sea moss farina dissolved in 

three quarts of hot water; same amount of 

gum tragacanth. Mix well together. Add a 

little oxalic acid. 

No 2. 

Shave a small quantity of castile soap and 

dissolve in hot water. Add to gum tragacanth. 

Mix well. 

No. 3. 

Sea moss, gum arable and gum tragacanth 

In dissolving gum tragacanth use % lb. gum 
dry to a gallon of water. Stir thoroughly two 
or three times each day. 

To make enamel stain in various shades use 
white lead for white. In Jersey or oak stain 
use china clay or terra alba. 

A word about the speed of brushes. 



For Jersey Bottoms. 
The speed of brush should be about ten 
hundred revolutions to the minute. 



47 

For White or Oak Bottom. 

The speed should be from ten to twelve 
hundred revolutions to the minute. 



For Red or Custom. 

The speed should be about fourteen hundred 
revolutions to the minute. 



End Brush for Brush and Top Lift. 

Should be about twelve hundred revolutions 
to the minute. 

It is a good idea to have the same size shaft 
for all of your brushes, as you can change a 
brush that you have used for a white bottom 
after it has got worn down where it is too stift 
and use it for a red or custom bottom on stoga 
work. 



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